Spotted by Locals Archive: Bürkliplatz Flohmarkt - Zurich's Best Known Fleamarket

It’s Saturday morning. You just had your cup of coffee. The sun is shining on the lake, and you are strolling down the promenade without a care in the world. What could make this day better? Well one amazing bargain of course!

The best place to do a bit of bargain hunting and antique shopping is the Bürkliplatz Flohmarkt. Positioned perfectly between the Zürisee and the start of the Bahnhofstrasse, this most famous of flea-markets in Zürich is begging you to wander on by. I love to check out the jewelry, vintage clothes, old postcards, Swiss paraphernalia (think huge cowbells and copper pots), and your expected garden-variety junk and nick-knacks.

Make sure you have your bargaining hat on though as contrary to most shopping etiquette in Switzerland, it is okay to do a bit of haggling here – even if they refuse to drop their prices, you can try! Make sure you visit the stand with all the cowbells – I have it on good authority if you buy a big bell, you might get a small one thrown in for free! And if you need a bit of mid-bargain-hunting nourishment, a sausage stand is usually just a stone’s throw away. Happy hunting!

Details about this spot
Bürkliplatz Flohmarkt | Relaxing, Shopping
Bürkliplatz | Kreis 1 City (area map) | +41444117350
May – Oct Sat 08:00 – 16:00
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Spotted by Locals Archive: Bodega Espanola - Tapas muy deliciosas

Tapas are all the rage now, and while the trend has not fully hit Zurich, there are a few restaurants here and there where you can experience a fully authentic Spanish tapas experience – and Bodega Espanola is the best in Niederdorf.

Downstairs in the dimly lit, rustic tapas bar you can get drinks and tapas at any time, while upstairs a full menu is on offer (no tapas). After you find a seat and order a big jug of sangria, have a wander up to the tapas case and pick out a few nibbles of your liking. The friendly guys behind the bar will tell you what everything is and arrange it neatly on a plate and bring it to your table.

Try a Spanish tortilla, which is more like an omelet and not at all like a Mexican tortilla, with eggs, potatoes, onions and herbs. Delicious! You can also not go wrong with an assortment of olives, chorizo and some roasted eggplant. Tapas are just 5 CHF per plate to live a little and try something new!

Come early in the evening for an appetizer… tables fill up quickly!

Details about this spot
Bodega Espanola | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants (Spanish) | Plate of tapas CHF 5.00
Münstergasse 15 | Kreis 1 City (area map) | +41442512310
11:30 – 14:00 & 18:00 – 23:00 daily
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Spotted by Locals Archive: Balthazar Cafe - Amazing Studel & Hot Chocolate

Despite being situated in an elite location, just 100 meters from the Bahnhof (train station), this little cafe remains quaint and inviting. In the winter especially the cafe is warm and cozy, and if there is no room inside or downstairs (smoking section) you are always welcome to snuggle up with the sheepskin chair covers outside. In summer, hundreds of chairs are lined up outside – so simply take your seat and you are in for a treat. This is where you can do some of Zurich’s best people-watching right on the infamous Bahnhofstrasse!

It is hard to miss the cafe’s pastry specialties on one of the carts strategically placed near the entrance – a not to miss being the homemade Apfel-Strudel. Oh the delicate pastry, warm apples, and vanilla sauce made with real vanilla bean are calling my name now (6.90 CHF + no skimping on the 2.50 CHF sauce). Or go nuts with my new favorite and try it with the Cinnamon Glaze! It is devine! What was that? The homemade hot chocolate (6.50 CHF) is more your thing? That’s okay, too. I sometimes have them together and call it a week. In summer, I recommend a big Weiss Bier (beer).

Don’t worry – they serve a wide selection of coffees, sandwiches, cakes, and even champagne so everyone can find something to suit at this darling cafe.

Details about this spot
Balthazar Cafe | Coffee & tea | Apfel-Strudel CHF 6.80
Bahnhofstrasse 104 | Kreis 1 City (area map) | +41442117866
Mon – Fri 06:30 – 22:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun 10:00 – 19:00
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Spotted by Locals Archive: Bäckerei-Konditorei Stocker

This is one of my all-time favorite bakeries in Zurich. If you go by on a weekday, they have a table out the front with all sorts of lovely baked goods such that you can easily swing by on your way to work or to your next engagement and grab a delicious, fresh baked something on the way. There is usually a line but they mean business here so it will go quickly.

On a weekday, and only on weekdays, make sure you try one of the excellent pretzels on offer. I like the one with sunflower seeds but they have several flavors – perhaps one for each day? They seem to have more croissants and rolls with nuts and seeds on a weekday, and more loaf like breads and delicate pastries on the weekends. But I dig it – it allows you to try something new no matter what day of the week!

They have some amazing specialty cakes, too, and they have their own brand of gelato or ice cream in the warmer months. Try something new! You cannot go wrong at this bakery near the Stadelhofen train station. (ps. this is a chain, so you can also find these babies in the Hauptbahnhof – or main train station – if you are not near Stadelhofen…)

Details about this spot
Bäckerei-Konditorei Stocker | Snacks | Sunflower seed pretzel CHF 3.50
Stadelhoferstrasse 22 | Kreis 8 Seefeld (area map) | +410442612663
Mon – Fri 06:00 – 18:00, Sat 07:00 – 18:00
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Räbeliechtli - Photos!

Today I am flying across the ocean to our new life in Australia... but I have not abandoned you yet! Here are some of the best shots from the Räbeliechtli - which MrsMac explained via her GuestPost a few weeks ago. All of these lanterns are made from turnips!

It was an amazing event, despite the rainy weather. The parade went about an hour and half. I would advise getting there early as the streets fill with people quickly and you want to ensure you get a good spot to take in the action but not be taken out by a float - some of them are very wide!!!  Just grab something yummy from one of the many street vendors and find your spot.

Before or after the parade, make sure you walk around the neighborhoods as well, because all of the houses and side-streets are also decorated with the turnip lanterns, making for a very magical display indeed. It's highly recommend that you take this in next year - the date is set for Saturday the 13th of November, 2010 in Richterswil. Thanks again to MrsMac for sharing this traditional event with Swisstory readers. Be sure to check out her blog, Swiss Family Mac.

Here is a slideshow with all of my best shots. . . see if you can guess what some of the floats are!

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Zürich Archeological Underground Tour

The group at Lindenhof, where our tour started

with the Roman ruins underfoot.

Last Sunday, I organized a little private tour for the Swiss Expat Bloggers with Zürich Tourism. The tour was called 'Archeological Windows' and was a tour of Zürich's archaeological highlights, including the Roman remains under the Lindenhof, the old city walls, and even a medieval sewage system under the Niederdorfstrasse. Unfortunately, this tour is only run on a private basis, but everyone really seemed to enjoy going underneath the city and seeing some of the hidden jewels of Zürich's past, so I would highly recommend going on the tour if you get a chance. Here are a few of the highlights that we saw:

 Medieval painting

Rosemarie, our wonderful guide that got a few extra keys to places not originally included on the tour, as we opted for the longer 3 hour tour, showed us a medieval painting in a former dance hall/entertainment hall. This painting is inside a private apartment in the Niederdorf area and was totally beautiful even today.

Exhibit with the old city walls and

interesting drawings of Zürich in medieval times

Near the city library, we entered a building that has pieces of the old city wall in the basement. It was cool to be under the city and see the hidden jems - old sewer pipes and pottery, too. There were lots of interesting drawings on display as well of how the city used to be set up - and something about deer living inside the moat. Does anyone remember what was up with the deer in this next photo?! Help! :) This deer street is now called Hirschengraben though - get it?! Deer... Hirsch!!! Nice. Anyway, we also looked at this Murerplan a lot - a medieval map of Zürich which shows all the water wheels and how Bahnhofstrasse used to be a cow path. :) (zoomed in version here)

This is just a sign I saw on the tour - the person who this is meant for will recognise it I hope. :)

Medieval Sewers

Another highlight was walking through a tiny, itty bitty door on Niederdorfstrasse, into a medieval sewer. I have to admit - the Zürich Tourism does a great job as all these secret places have great signs and information (underground that is) if you have enough time to read it all. My favorite was an informational sign for the sewer display that said, 'Even in the middle ages, the big question was, 'What do we do with our poo?''... ok it did not say that exactly, but something like that. Oh I loved it. It killed me.

Speaking of which, here is a monk that slipped on some poo and was like, 'Man, I wish we had running water already.' Ok so it did not say that either, but I wish it had! You can see the straw above the loo for wiping back then. Ouch!

Inside the Helmhaus - only enterable by key.

We also went underneate the Helmhaus, the site of Zürich's first church which was built by Karl der Grosse on the site where two of the city's Saints, Felix and Regula, were decapitated, then walked 40 paces up a hill where they then collapsed and were later buried. You can still see a rock down there where the supposed decaptation took place under the Helmhaus!

If you are a history buff like Jace, I am sure you would remember more of the details, but even for a non-history buff like me, it was a fun tour... I did not even mention or show pictures of the Roman baths under the city that we saw or the new stained glass windows open for viewing at the Grossmunster Church... both sites open full time to the public...oh there was so much more. If you also have a post about this trip, please leave me a comment to your blog so I can share your feedback!

Again, thanks to all for coming on the tour and hopefully we can arrange another for those that missed out on the first. If you are interested, leave a comment on the Swiss Expat bloggers network or here.

Archeological Windows Tour - Zürich Tourismus
Website
Private tour run by appointment in your language of choice
Maximum 20 people
+41 44 215 40 88

Also check out the write up on this tour from:

• Amanda  at Queso Suizo
  

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Must See's/Do's from the Swisstory Fall/Winter Archives

Tomorrow I will have a post all about the great tour we took of Zürich yesterday that took us below the streets and through Zürich's archeological remains! Today, I thought I would feature a few articles from the archives that are relevant this time of year, as I realize that not everyone is Swisstory obsessed and reads the archives. Enjoy!

• Wine Messe Zürich - it is on again and I highly recommend you plan a day to check out all the European wines on offer and get sloshed... er, I mean, sample them all. The event is on October 29th - November 12th this year. More info available at expovina.ch. Here my write up from last year on the Wine Messe!
  
  
• It is raclette and fondue time again! So get your cheese and heat up those burners for some tasty cheesy delights. I got my cheap fondue pot at the Brocki-Land. And stock up on fondue essentials like Fondue packets (we love Appenzeller!) and fondue seasoning at your local supermarket now.
  
  
• Ski Season is coming - save a bundle getting to the slopes with the Snow N'Rail Pass from the SBB. We used this to get to Flumserberg last year for our snowboarding lessons with the Zürich International Ski Club. Signups this year for lessons are (thank God) online. Make sure you sign-up early, because if it is anything like last year (where I had to wait in line for hours...) these spots are HOT! and will go fast. Online Sign-up for Zürich International Ski Club Lessons.
  
  
• Metzgete: I have seen the signs - so I know Metzgete time is coming soon! If you want to try something awful, er, I mean some Swiss offal, look out for the Metzgete. If offal makes your stomach churn, like it does mine, at least try some of the wild meat on offer at the moment - like venison or wild boar. These are tasty.
  
  
• Christmas is coming! And since the supermarkets don't think it is too early, I don't either - it's time to start planning your Christmas market trips. Here are some Christmas market tips from Swisstory readers of the best markets, and don't forget to check out my Christmas Advent from 2008 for some not to miss Christmas events... I am VERY upset that we are leaving just before December, when all the markets really start. Bummer. But enjoy them for me!!!
  

Enjoy!
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Review of the Glacier Express: Zermatt to St. Moritz

Ok, before I show you the pictures of the Glacier Express - which was AWESOME - let me explain a few things. You are on a moving train for a long time (almost 8 hours if you do the whole strek, which we did...), so a lot of the pictures are, well, let's just say blurred or blocked by things in or on the train or completely ruined due to glare if you have the fortune of a beautiful sunny day, which we did. So I will be the first to say that the photos are crap but please do not let that persuade you from partaking in the Glacier Express yourself, because it was a pure pleasure... ok... I am glad I got that off my chest. Now let's look at the best of the bunch of crappy photos as I tell you why you need to make reservations for this scenic train experience for 2010 right now.

We boarded the panorama train in Zermatt and reserved tickets for the full journey to St. Moritz - but you can get off and on at any of the stops inbetween. The full journey is about 8 hours - which in hindsight was probably a bit too long and we could have happily gotten off in Chur.

In addition to a normal ticket for the journey, you have to make an additional reservation for the Glacier Express. Don't forget this step! It is CHF 30 per person for this special reservation. We did the journey on a day pass, my family on the Swiss pass, and then we all reserved seats and lunch. So in the end it really wasn't very expensive to take this scenic trip across the lower half of Switzerland.

The ride is very comfortable and you have a great view due to the huge picture windows to the ceiling and in the ceiling - although it can make it a bit dizzying at times!

You also get ear phones in order to hear the commentary along the way and a nice bell chimes to let you know when the next commentary will be on. So you not only see a lot but also you learn a lot as well.

I also booked us a reservation for lunch on the train, which was somewhat expensive but very good. We got the daily menu which they served at your seat and even offered seconds! Jace got a huge steak and probably put his vegetarian neighbors into a bit of a panic - sitting on a long train, cows in the hills and on your table... haha - but it was delicious. If you have a bit left in the budget, I recommend eating on the train despite all the reviews on TripAdvisor that say the service is poor - it was still fun.

The best part of the ride naturally is the gorgeous scenery.... lots of mountains, valleys, gorges, canyons, green pastures, ski areas and more! I really enjoyed the trip for the diversity of landscape that you were able to see from the comfort of the train. Not great for photography lovers, as I mentioned above as it is not the best location to takes shots of the stunning scenery. This can be painful sometimes as you just want to take a picture of the amazing site before you - but alas - your shot turns out like this:

Regardless, we were able to get a few nice shots to prove the ride is worth it! Beautiful Switzerland unfolding around you...

The Glacier Express runs from the end of May to the end of October. I would recommend booking in advance, lunch too, especially if you are traveling in the summer months. You can also get some great rail and hotel packages, too.

Make sure you include the Glacier Express in your travel plans - it was a great adventure and means of seeing some of the most beauftiful Swiss country on offer!

More resources:

• Glacier Express Website in English
• Check out more Reviews of the Glacier Express on TripAdvisor.

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OrangeCinema Tickets NOW ON SALE!

I got my tickets... did you?! Buy now before they are sold out and watch a movie under the stars with the Zürisee as the stunning background. I missed this last year and was not about to miss it again. Good luck and perhaps I will see you there!

• OrangeCinema Film program
• Buy tickets

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Living and Working in Switzerland, 12th Edition: A Survival Handbook. This is an essential for anyone thinking about living in Switzerland. Buy it now via Amazon UK or pre-order your Amazon.com copy today! Thank you for supporting Swisstory by shopping on Amazon.

Spotted by Locals: Merkur Confiserie - Fresh chocolate by the slab

Have you checked out my favorite spots in Zürich yet on Spotted by Locals?

No?

Ok, well I thought as much - so today I am featuring one of those favorites here - the Merkur Confiserie. I like the one on Bahnhofstrasse for a sensory experience - they even have a chocolatier behind the counter that you can watch at work! And I like the one in the Bahnhof for a quick pick-me-up.

But above all, those blocks of chocolate are awesome and make the perfect gift. Ahh... sweet chocolate block... I gotta run. There are a few with my name on them right now!

Read the full write-up on Spotted by Locals Zürich.
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Living and Working in Switzerland, 12th Edition: A Survival Handbook. This is an essential for anyone thinking about living in Switzerland. Buy it now via Amazon UK or pre-order your Amazon.com copy today! Thank you for supporting Swisstory by shopping on Amazon.

Spotted by Me! Zurich now on Spotted by Locals

Exciting news! I am officially a spotter on the Spotted by Locals travel site. This site is great because it gives you the perspective from locals on your favorite cities in Europe - and that now includes Zurich!

Check it out and you can read about 20 of my favorite locations in Zurich - as well as a bunch of others from the other Zurich spotters... I will highlight some of my favorites over the coming weeks and I look forward to your comments and feedback on the Spotted by Locals site. Enjoy! ;)

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Zurich 'Must See' #7: Zurich at night

Zürich Must See #7: Zurich at Night

This must sound totally lame, but I really enjoy Zurich at night.

Perhaps it says something about my (lack of?) social life, but it was just recently when Sarah visited that I noticed how lovely Zurich is all lit up on a clear night. The lights reflecting off the sleepy Limmat, swans floating along in the darkness, the churches and clock towers glowing in the distance, and the stillness of the streets, with only the whiz of a trolley and a bell on a bike to remind you that you are walking the streets of a normally bustling (or at least well-trafficked) city.

If you like the crazy nightlife you have to come out around midnight, but around 9 or 10 pm everything is just still and elegant and graceful. Give me a full moon and I might just go insane with the beauty. I recommend a walk around the Limmat, perhaps heading down Niederdorfstrasse.

Zurich 'Must See' #6: Lindenplatz

Zürich Must See #6:Lindenhof in Lindenplatz - one of the best views of Zürich!
Location: Lindenhof
Website: More info in German, or in English
When: Whenever!

The Lindenhof area of Zürich is particularly quaint and cosy, with lots of old buildings and cobblestone streets. I always take my visitors up to the Lindenplatz area, which is particularly charming when the residents are playing the big chess up there, and it is also one of the best views of Zürich over the wall and looking down on the Limmat. Jace would also have me mention that this is also the spot where you can see some of the remains of the previous Roman town that made mark here centuries ago, and there are supposedly Roman ruins under the entire Lindenplatz area. So go up and have a look around... great photo opp as well!

Größere Kartenansicht

Zurich 'Must See' #5: Burkliplatz Flea Market

Zürich Must See #5: Burkliplatz Flea Market ( Flohmarkt am Bürkliplatz)
Location: Bürkliplatz, 8001 Zürich Tel. +41 44 411 73 50/51
Website: Zurich Website
When: Saturday 8 am - 4 pm, May 1st through the end of October
See Burkliplatz on Google Maps

Whenever we have guests or are walking through Zurich on a Saturday, I make Jace walk with me through the Burkliplatz Flea Market. It is really quite a big flea market, especially if the weather is nice, and you can get all kinds of things from antiques, furniture, rugs, clothes, and shoes, to old designer handbags, cool kitsch jewelry, pottery, glass, and modern day knick knacks... heck, you can even buy a big fat cowbell if you want. (That is what I want!)

I recommend you stroll on through the next time you are in the city on a Saturday and pick up a bargain or an antique and maybe even a Wurst while you are at it. Then try not to go and spend all your (remaining?) dough on the one of Europe's most expensive shopping strips, the Bahnhofstrasse! Happy shopping! :)

Zürich 'Must See' #4: The Zurichsee

Zürich Must See #4: Zürichsee of Lake Zurich is... well, Zurich's Lake!

Location: Center of Zurich - Take Tram 2, 5, 8, 9 or 11 to Burkliplatz or walk down Bahnhofstrasse to the Quaibrücke for a great view of the lake and Alps in the background.
See Burkliplatz stop near Zurichsee on Google Maps

10 Great Things to do on the Zurichsee

1. Stroll down the eastern Promendade near Uto-Quai and see the ducks and swans, but don't feed them bread or anything, please! There are signs along the way if you want to do some bird watching.
   


2. Walk to the Zurihorn, sit on a bench and taken in the amazing view. In summer there are some great ice cream stands around. I recommend the maple walnut.
   


3. Visit the Arboretum and take a photo of yourself amongst the big trees or on the waterfront. There are great big green lawns under the trees - perfect for a picnic with items from the Burkliplatz market.
   


4. 'Rent' a free bike and bike around the See - available from May to October. Get there early for the best selection of bikes, skateboards or trottis/scooters.
   


5. Take a cruise on the Zurichsee - You can get off or just stay on for the ride. I have heard that Rapperswil is nice. And if you are really keen, try the salsaboat!
   


6. Visit the Kaffeemuseum - for 5CHF you can learn all about the history of coffee! (Val we are taking you here!!!) then go for a coffee in the cafe on the park near the Seefeldquai.
   


7. In the summer, visit one of the Bierhalles, or open air pubs, that are set up along the See and have a pint or two. There is a huge one near the Bauschänzli and lots on the eastern side of the See, either set up on the water or on the land! You can even enjoy a wurst!
   


8. Rent a paddleboat and paddle over to the big jet of water that can get you wet! What do you call that thing anyway(photo below)? It's a good destination point to paddle to though.
   


9. Use your day pass or Tageskarte (ticket for public transport in Zurich) and take a water taxi from Burkliplatz to the Casino and stay on and travel back down the Limmat to the Landesmuseum - it is a cheap but nice way to cruise the lake and river on the cheap!
   


10. Depending on the weather, you can go for a swim in the Zurichsee - there are baths (badi) set up all over, some for just women, some for just men, etc. - or you can go for a Sauna - in the winter months, there are saunas on the See, again separated by gender if you wish, where you can go for a nice hot steam.
    
    Größere Kartenansicht